Gumbo de biche

 A satisfactory gumbo is always available, just add in some time and slow cooking.

About 1 lb. venison (preferably upper shoulder or upper hind). Dice meat cross grain with all silver skin well trimmed.

Some kind of fat: smoked sausage, andouille or at least some hickory bacon

1/2 cup all-purpose flour - less than 1 measured cup of mild oil or whole butter.

1 cup of wine (red or white OK, but consider the quality)

Onion

Bell pepper

Celery

Garlic

Red pepper (cayenne) 

Chicken stock (aproximately 5 cups), some will be lost to reduction in cooking. Add as required.

Salt, white pepper, oregano, bay leaf

Green onions and parsley for a finish

When it comes to a mild cut of well drained and cleaned venison less is more. The simple flavor should be supported with a simple roux and mild accents of oregano is a fine choice to add some complexity.

When finished and relaxed overnight this gumbo will balance well with the richness of the roux and the starch of the white rice. 

Of course, season to taste. 

The roux

Begin with a good heavy sauce pot heated on medium heat.

Add flour to a warm dry pot. Use a wood flat edged spoon to stir and toast the flour to a more than gold tan. Attend to this with full attention. Allow for some smoke, but do not let the flour settle and actually scorch.

Once the color is reached that is near the color of a good kitchen spoon add light oil (less than one half cup of corn oil). Whole butter is also a fine option, but more attention is required to stir and control heat to not scorch the butter in a hot pot.

Combine the toasted flour and the oil/butter. This flour to fat combination is the base roux and the base platform of the whole gumbo. This mixture may start as a clump and ball mess, but agitation and heat will thoroughly mix the flour with the fat and allow everything to "relax" and continue to toast.

DO NOT scorch the roux. Attention and stirring is required over medium heat for some continuous minutes to achieve the rustic goodness of a dark roux. I go for the color of 70% fine chocolate.

The mirepoix

Finely dice the onion, celery and bell pepper. Mince the garlic (add as much as you like). 

The white pith of the bell pepper and the seeds are never to get into a gumbo! 

Obviously a mrepoix here means NO CARROTS, no carrots in gumbo - hard stop.

Render the sausage seasoning and thoroughly render any minced bacon if used. Note the venison is not requiring any saute. A deft touch here with this special meat.

Sauté the hard vegetables first and allow to sweat before adding in the minced garlic. Sauté until onions begin to at least "clear". 

Add the wine and de glace all the sous from the pot. Incorporate the liquid well, no lumps.

Add the chicken stock (veal stock, vegetable stock is also fine).

Combine and bring to a boil

The cooking chemistry only begins once a full boil is achieved. This boil is critical to the whole process. Mind that the froth and foam does not boil over and make a mess. 

Add diced venison.

Add the oregano and bay leaf. 

Reduce from a boil to a slow simmer. Cover pot and leave lid ajar. 

Slow simmer cook for about two hours. A quick gumbo is ready in 1 1/2 hours and a full gumbo happens near two hours of simmer. 

Don't float the onions!

Serving a rushed gumbo where the onions actually float in the broth is unacceptable. We should honor the kitchen, the pantry, the pot and the biche to finish the gumbo properly.

A matter of color...

It would be a cheat to color the gumbo with a caramel Kitchen Bouquet. It would be a cheat and then there are times that it might still be required. I leave this condition to experience for reference and full explanation.

To serve:

Seasoning of cayenne, salt and white pepper is still required in the pot. Note the green onions for more than garnish as served. Simple steamed rice is my preference, but the ongoing experimentation (rather mature already) of using potato salad in leu of rice is an OK evolution.

Note that there is no file in this recipe. I have found that the fresh full flavor of file does not rest well with the savory of the meats in this gumbo, explore as preferred.

Enjoy!

FC